climbing frame

Doryanthus, Spear Lily, now in flower

The garden as described by Graham Quinn in the 1990s

The house and gardens of Quinta da Palmeira are situated on an impressive tree-clad outcrop some 200 meters above Funchal Bay and command superb views of the city and harbour. Property records date to at least the 16^th century and from 1707 it was a crown possession until it was sold in 1908 to Harry Hinton. The Hinton family first came to Madeira in 1838. Initially sugar milling dominated their business interests and they also did much to pioneer the island’s wicker industry.

The present neo-colonial residence was built around 1811, however, the Hintons extended and embellished the property and much of the garden layout, as now perceived, also took shape around this time. The heirs have assiduously developed the gardens and in particular Mrs Theo Welsh, now 91 years old, has added many rare and unusual plants from all over the world.

Much has been written and said about Madeira’s balmy temperate maritime climate. Indeed, first-time visitors to the island constantly marvel at the diverse and luxuriant plant life and as one approaches the quinta up the steep basalt paved drive such diversity is immediately apparent. Initially one passes through a thick canopy of trees which throughout the year is punctuated with splashes of colour and tends to distract the eye away from an Aladdin’s cave of interesting plants scrambling beneath. In the late winter thickets of fragrant creamy white Pittosporum undulatum, now extensively naturalised on the island, and scarlet erythrinas, especially the delicate flowered Erythrina Abyssinica, which give way to the ubiquitous blue jacaranda in April-May.

During the summer months the red vermilions of the flame tree, Brachychiton scerifolium, Eucalyptus ficifolia and the African Tupil tree (Spathodea campanulata dominate). By autumn it is the turn of the massive south American kapok (Chorisia speciosa) with its striking grey flecked blooms in varying shades of deep pink to nearly white. Such a magnificent all the year round kaleidoscope of colour could be dismissed by the blasé as all very much part and parcel of what one would expect to see in any large Madeiran garden. However, as the canopy thins out it soon becomes evident, despite the luxuriant growth, that there is much to arrest the attention of the connoisseur. For instance, one finds delicate  whitish-pink flowered shrubby Convolvus floridus of the Canaries festooned with fragrant bloom of the Mandeville susveclons. Clemantis Armandii, epiphyliums, Crinum bulbispermum, C x powellii and acanthus all competing happily at ground level whilst asparagus plumesus and the climbing Butcher’s Broom (Semele androgyne) clamber skywards for ten to fifteen meters up the rocky cliff towering above the driveway. This cliff also supports precarious clumps of Aloe arborescens and cascades of triangular stems of Hylocerus undatus which produces enourmous nocturnal flowers during September- October.

From the forecourt of the house, the main garden area (approx 1.8 hectares) descends south and east in a series of broad terraces which largely follow the natural topography of the site. On the periphery of the intricately paved forecourt one finds magnificent old specimens of endemic and exciting trees – Arbutus canariensis, the fruit of which put up a bold display for many months, Coctus foetens and Taxodium distichum, to name but a few. A broad flight of stone paved steps, with the balustrade encrusted with the double yellow Banksian rose, leads onto a sweeping lawn dominated by enormous trees. Camphor, Norfolk Island pine, holm and Mexican cypress. Bold clumps of shell ginger (Alpinia zerumbet) and impenetrable coppices of the tree-like Strelitzia nicolia with its typical blue and creamy-white bird of paradise flowers create a remarkably tropical atmosphere. The pathway gently leads to the eastern side of the property where it joins a major garden axis, a broad walk some 150 meters long which was once dominated by English oaks – one remains. 

On the North side of this axis is an embankment shaded by ancient plane trees underplanted with agapanthus, red-flowered azaleas and clumps of curious Doryanthes excels which produce spectacular flowers two metre long spikes of luxurious brilliant red flowers during spring. Other plants of note in this section of the garden include bold groups of the Scilla Madeirensis, Grevillea Banksii and the Chinese flame tree (Koelreuteria formosana) with its beautiful flaming masses of papery fruits which give the impression that the tree is supporting a rogue bougainvillea. Towards the western end of this axis overlooking the croquet lawn there are two fine specimens of Sterculia diversifolia (syn. B. Erachychiton diversifolia) with poplar-like leaves and panicles of delicate bell-shaped greenish red and white flowers . Nearby is a particularly fine dragon tree (Dracaena draco), no stranger to the suburban garden, but now, alas very rare in the wild – only two such plants remain in Madeira.

The remaining terraces below accommodate more formal bedding and the rose garden but the retaining walls, balustrades and pergolas are awash with interesting plants and provide  a charming degree of informality. In the late winter old gnarled wisteria varieties on the south side of the rose garden dramatically frame views of Funchal and the south Atlantic. Robust groups of scarlet Holmscoldia sanguine and Clerodendrum splendens and much more spill onto pathways and for the discerning there are always surprises, no matter what the season, Thumbergia mysorensis with its striking pendant racemes of maroon and bright yellow provide interest throughout much of the year. Combretum coccineum with intense tufts of scarlet stamens and contrasting bright green leaves compete with Rangoon creeper (Quisqualis indica). Apart from the plants the terrace walls have been recessed to accommodate azulejos decorated cisterns and sitting areas with the darkest corners covered in maiden hair ferns and these provide delightful cool retreats. 

From this area of the garden the house is virtually obscured by trees but the silhouette of the palm trees, which give the quinta its name, draw one to the south west corner of the garden where a twin arched window stands; a feature salvaged by the Hintos in 1877 from the ruins of the Casa do Esmeraldo where Christopher Columbus was reputed to have stayed. Plants of note in this part of the garden include the rare Jasminum azoricuk discreetly scrambling though its ubiquitous cousin J polyanthum and both contrasting with the purple-blues of Asarina barclaiana. Close by the window is a specimen of Ipomea arborescens which produces masses of delicate white crinkly flowers. A sweeping stepped ascent behind the window brings one to a narrow avenue of Italian cypress, some supporting Queen of the night (Selenicerus sp._ which provide a surprising contrast when in flower. Shrubs predominate in this part, Pride of Madeira (Echium nervosum), Rhaphiolepsis umbellate, Pittosporum tobira, Loropetalum chinense, Cantua buxifolia and much else enlivens the late winter along with such ground cover  plants as the delicate Crassula mulitcava (a South African native which received an award of merit in 1984) and Iris fimbriata. From this plant one can return to the main axis or descend onto the croquet lawn which has an interesting collection of shrubs on all sides. On leaving the croquet lawn one can return to the house by way of a winding stepped path paved in the traditional way with sea-washed basalt pebbles.

This account has tried to provide the reader with a botanical commentary of the more unusual and rare plants found in the garden and little has been said about the “common” exotic plants which thrive here all over the island. Visitors cannot fail to be enthralled throughout the year and one hopes that this situation will prevail.

Quinta Palmeira house as featured on the cover of "The Origins of Tourism in Madeira", by Rui Campos Matos

History of the House - Blackburn notes

John and Thomas Blackburn established a wine exporting firm in Madeira in 1760. They did not own vineyards but purchased the grape pressings from the natives.

They were succeeded by Robert and George Blackburn, and probably a temple joined them, as there was a family of that name in the island, hence the from later of Temple, Blackburn and Robinson.

About 1810, while out riding with the then Governor of the island they came across a spot where Palmeira now stands and were so struck by the beauty of the site that Robert decided to build there, and Quinta Palmeira was completed in 1811 at the cost of ₤40,000, a large sum for those days.

The land was Church property and strong representations were made by the local authorities to the Lisbon Government, and a great feud arose but it was finally satisfactory arranged.

About 1850 all the vines of the island were destroyed by the fungus Oidium Tuckori and the Blackburn firm closed and left the island.